Vegetables
We grow our vegetable in raised beds. This protects the ground from compaction by foot traffic and is easier on our backs.
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The keys to good organic gardening:
Full Sun
Watering - not too much, not too little
Soil testing
Beneficial insects
Good soil
Row covers
Avoid poisons
Full Sun
If you want a garden, you will need an areas that gets half-a-day's sun or more - preferably full sun. If trees or buildings shade your garden excessively, you garden will suffer. This should be obvious, but I have seen people plant a garden in the shade and wonder why it is not doing well.
Watering
A vegetable garden needs about 1" of water a week. Put a few empty buckets around your garden and monitor how much rainfall you get. If it is under 1" per week, you need to water to makeup the difference. However, in well drained soils, or raised beds, you may need to water more than this. If the plants get droopy, you have waited too long to water. If the plants die, you have either watered too little or too much. How can you tell? Dig down a few inches into the soil, pick up a handful of soil from the 2"-4" depth and squeeze it, then let go. If you squeeze water out of it, it is way too wet. If it crumbles into dust, it is way too dry. Ideally, when you let go, the soil should hold together without being too damp.
Soil Testing
Which is better, spending $300 on organic fertilizer or $10 on a soil test? Mailing your soil in for testing, can pay off and save you money. Test results will tell you what might or might not be needed and how to fix the situation. Plants need at least 19 minerals to be healthy. If they do not get these, they will be more prone to diseases.
Good places to have your soil analyzed are UCONN or the University of Maine.
This is what your plants need:
Carbon dioxide, oxygen, water, light - plants grow best at 1500 ppm carbon dioxide; however, our air is at the lowest it has been in 300 million years, i.e. only 400 ppm - ice age levels. There is not much we can do about raising CO2 levels outdoors, but greenhouses pump in extra CO2 to raise the levels to 1500 ppm, thereby boosting production by 30%. Over the next few thousand years, as we continue to come out of the last ice age and as the planet warms, it will cause the oceans to release more CO2 into the atmosphere and the plants will love that.
NPK – macronutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K) – these three are needed in the highest quantities.
Macronutrients - calcium, magnesium, sulfur – less is needed of these 3, but much more than trace amounts.
Micronutrients - boron, chlorine, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, molybdenum, nickel, cobalt, vanadium, selenium, silicon, sodium - even less of these 13 are needed.
Trace nutrients – all 90 or so naturally-occurring elements are found in plants, debate persists whether these are needed for optimum plant health or just along for the ride.
Proper soil pH is needed, for the plants grown. Each type of plant has its own preferred pH range. Mineral deficiencies occur in the soil if pH is too high or too lowl.
If you want a garden, you will need an areas that gets half-a-day's sun or more - preferably full sun. If trees or buildings shade your garden excessively, you garden will suffer. This should be obvious, but I have seen people plant a garden in the shade and wonder why it is not doing well.
Watering
A vegetable garden needs about 1" of water a week. Put a few empty buckets around your garden and monitor how much rainfall you get. If it is under 1" per week, you need to water to makeup the difference. However, in well drained soils, or raised beds, you may need to water more than this. If the plants get droopy, you have waited too long to water. If the plants die, you have either watered too little or too much. How can you tell? Dig down a few inches into the soil, pick up a handful of soil from the 2"-4" depth and squeeze it, then let go. If you squeeze water out of it, it is way too wet. If it crumbles into dust, it is way too dry. Ideally, when you let go, the soil should hold together without being too damp.
Soil Testing
Which is better, spending $300 on organic fertilizer or $10 on a soil test? Mailing your soil in for testing, can pay off and save you money. Test results will tell you what might or might not be needed and how to fix the situation. Plants need at least 19 minerals to be healthy. If they do not get these, they will be more prone to diseases.
Good places to have your soil analyzed are UCONN or the University of Maine.
This is what your plants need:
Carbon dioxide, oxygen, water, light - plants grow best at 1500 ppm carbon dioxide; however, our air is at the lowest it has been in 300 million years, i.e. only 400 ppm - ice age levels. There is not much we can do about raising CO2 levels outdoors, but greenhouses pump in extra CO2 to raise the levels to 1500 ppm, thereby boosting production by 30%. Over the next few thousand years, as we continue to come out of the last ice age and as the planet warms, it will cause the oceans to release more CO2 into the atmosphere and the plants will love that.
NPK – macronutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K) – these three are needed in the highest quantities.
Macronutrients - calcium, magnesium, sulfur – less is needed of these 3, but much more than trace amounts.
Micronutrients - boron, chlorine, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, molybdenum, nickel, cobalt, vanadium, selenium, silicon, sodium - even less of these 13 are needed.
Trace nutrients – all 90 or so naturally-occurring elements are found in plants, debate persists whether these are needed for optimum plant health or just along for the ride.
Proper soil pH is needed, for the plants grown. Each type of plant has its own preferred pH range. Mineral deficiencies occur in the soil if pH is too high or too lowl.
Beneficial insects
Beneficial insects are a farmers best friend and are discussed in the Fruit Trees menu, sub-item Overview.
Good Soil
Topping off your soil annually with compost (for organic matter and minerals) and crushed sea shells (for calcium and magnesium) is the best way to quickly boost the health of your plants.
Also, planting cover crops and plowing these into your soil (called "green manure").
The biggest secret of organic gardening is compost, compost, compost.
Organically approved screened compost can be obtained from:
Collins Powder Hill Farm, Enfield, CT
Earth Care Farm, Charlestown, RI. Earth Care Farm also has an excellent "Raised Bed Mix" which is ready to use - just fill your bed. It contains their compost with peat moss, and minerals. We use this in all our raised beds, then top each bed off with compost each spring.
Row Covers
This is one of the greatest inventions, for some veggies, to control harmful insect populations. More details can be be found under the Methodology menu: subcategory Diseases and Insects.
Avoid Poisons
Poisons are not good for you or the environment and they are not necessary to have a healthy, gorgeous veggie garden.
When does veggie gardening start?
Vegetable planting starts mid-October when garlic cloves are planted.
Then in February, March, and April we start growing some of our seeds indoors for transplanting outside near the end of May. We plant the seed in trays and use heating mats to sprout the seeds. After the seeds sprout, we turn off the heating mats and turn on the grow lights.
We grow a wide assortment of vegetables. Some we have found are not worth the effort so we no longer grow those.
Since we garden organically without pesticides, we select varieties that are disease resistant, productive and tasty.
Besides our listing, at Cornell, you can find disease resistant vegetable varieties, and information on diseases for each type of vegetable crop.
These are the vegetables we do grow:
Asparagus
Basil
Beans (pole beans) - 'Rattlesnake Pole', 'Kentucky Wonder Pole', Chinese beans from a friend
Beets - 'Boro F1', 'Detroit Dark Red', 'Eagle'
Bok Choy - 'Petite Star', 'Shanghai Green', 'Taisai'
Cabbage, Green - 'Golden Acre', most cabbage needs too much space, this one is compact and delicious
Carrots - 'Cosmic Purple', 'Danvers 126', 'Naval F1'
Chard (Swiss) - 'Improved Rainbow' ('Bright Lights'), 'Silverado'
Collard Greens - 'Cascade Glaze', 'Georgia Southern', 'Tiger'
Cucumbers - we only grow 'pickling' cukes for salad and pickling, 'Burpee Pickler', 'Caylpso', 'Cross Country', 'Little Leaf', 'Ronda Cornichon', 'Sassy'
Dill - 'Bouquet', 'Fernleaf'
Eggplant, Asian - 'Bride', 'Diamond', 'Kamo', 'Melanzana Violetta Lunga', 'Millionaire', 'Pingtung Long', 'Purple Shine', 'Rosa Bianca', 'Shoya Long'
Fennel - 'Perfection'
Garlic - 'Phillips'
Greens, Chinese - 'Early', 'Jung', 'Senposai'
Kale - 'Lacinato' (i.e. Tuscan), 'Dwarf Green Curled', 'Ripbor F1'
Lettuce - 'Black Seeded Simpson', 'Nevada', 'New Red Fire', 'Newham', 'Red Oak Leaf'
Onion (Scallions) - 'Evergreen Bunching'
Parsley - 'Krausa'
Peppers, sweet - 'Carmen' (delicious sweet red), 'Sweet Banana'
Peppers, hot - 'Bird' 1.5" Thai, 'Chilei Cayene', 'Early Jalapeno', 'Hungarian Hot Wax'
Snow Peas - 'Carouby De Maussane', 'Green Beauty', 'Taichung 11'
Spinach - 'Acadia F1', 'Escalade F1', 'Regiment F1', 'Renegade F1', 'Shelby F1' - all are disease resistant
Spinach, 'Malabar' - comes in green and red stem varieties, large vine you can east all summer without bolting
Squash - 'Green Striped Cushaw', 'Tromba d'Albenga' (aka Tromboncino), 'Waltham Butternut'
Tomatillo - grows well and is productive; we only grow this in years when we run out of green sauce
Tomatoes, Cherry - 'Cherry Bomb F1', 'Rapunzel', 'Sakura F1', 'SuperSweet 100 VF', 'Sweetie'
Tomatoes, Plum - 'Plum Regal', 'Yaqui'
Tomatoes, Salad - 'Mountain Merit F1', 'Iron lady F1', 'Warrior', 'Longkeeper' (keeps into December)
Turnip - 'Gilfeather Turnip', plant July 4 and harvest Oct-Nov. This is actually a cross between a rutabaga (Brassica napus) and a true turnip (Brassica rapa)
These are the vegetables we no longer grow:
Broccoli - heads do not develop
Cabbage, Chinese - too buggy
Celery - shelf life is too short
Corn - too much labor and space used for the little we get
Eggplant, large - not enough time to grow to full size on our site
Kohlrabi - gets moldy in most years
Okra - grows well, but Judy does not like it.
Onions (full sized) - not enough sun in our garden area to get large onions
Parsnips - have not figure out how to grows these properly yet
Potatoes - too much labor for the little we get and seed potatoes are too expensive
Pumpkin - we prefer Cushaw squash for pumpkin pie
Radish - they grow well but have limited use
Sweet potatoes - too much labor for the little we get and the vines take up too much room
Beneficial insects are a farmers best friend and are discussed in the Fruit Trees menu, sub-item Overview.
Good Soil
Topping off your soil annually with compost (for organic matter and minerals) and crushed sea shells (for calcium and magnesium) is the best way to quickly boost the health of your plants.
Also, planting cover crops and plowing these into your soil (called "green manure").
The biggest secret of organic gardening is compost, compost, compost.
Organically approved screened compost can be obtained from:
Collins Powder Hill Farm, Enfield, CT
Earth Care Farm, Charlestown, RI. Earth Care Farm also has an excellent "Raised Bed Mix" which is ready to use - just fill your bed. It contains their compost with peat moss, and minerals. We use this in all our raised beds, then top each bed off with compost each spring.
Row Covers
This is one of the greatest inventions, for some veggies, to control harmful insect populations. More details can be be found under the Methodology menu: subcategory Diseases and Insects.
Avoid Poisons
Poisons are not good for you or the environment and they are not necessary to have a healthy, gorgeous veggie garden.
When does veggie gardening start?
Vegetable planting starts mid-October when garlic cloves are planted.
Then in February, March, and April we start growing some of our seeds indoors for transplanting outside near the end of May. We plant the seed in trays and use heating mats to sprout the seeds. After the seeds sprout, we turn off the heating mats and turn on the grow lights.
We grow a wide assortment of vegetables. Some we have found are not worth the effort so we no longer grow those.
Since we garden organically without pesticides, we select varieties that are disease resistant, productive and tasty.
Besides our listing, at Cornell, you can find disease resistant vegetable varieties, and information on diseases for each type of vegetable crop.
These are the vegetables we do grow:
Asparagus
Basil
Beans (pole beans) - 'Rattlesnake Pole', 'Kentucky Wonder Pole', Chinese beans from a friend
Beets - 'Boro F1', 'Detroit Dark Red', 'Eagle'
Bok Choy - 'Petite Star', 'Shanghai Green', 'Taisai'
Cabbage, Green - 'Golden Acre', most cabbage needs too much space, this one is compact and delicious
Carrots - 'Cosmic Purple', 'Danvers 126', 'Naval F1'
Chard (Swiss) - 'Improved Rainbow' ('Bright Lights'), 'Silverado'
Collard Greens - 'Cascade Glaze', 'Georgia Southern', 'Tiger'
Cucumbers - we only grow 'pickling' cukes for salad and pickling, 'Burpee Pickler', 'Caylpso', 'Cross Country', 'Little Leaf', 'Ronda Cornichon', 'Sassy'
Dill - 'Bouquet', 'Fernleaf'
Eggplant, Asian - 'Bride', 'Diamond', 'Kamo', 'Melanzana Violetta Lunga', 'Millionaire', 'Pingtung Long', 'Purple Shine', 'Rosa Bianca', 'Shoya Long'
Fennel - 'Perfection'
Garlic - 'Phillips'
Greens, Chinese - 'Early', 'Jung', 'Senposai'
Kale - 'Lacinato' (i.e. Tuscan), 'Dwarf Green Curled', 'Ripbor F1'
Lettuce - 'Black Seeded Simpson', 'Nevada', 'New Red Fire', 'Newham', 'Red Oak Leaf'
Onion (Scallions) - 'Evergreen Bunching'
Parsley - 'Krausa'
Peppers, sweet - 'Carmen' (delicious sweet red), 'Sweet Banana'
Peppers, hot - 'Bird' 1.5" Thai, 'Chilei Cayene', 'Early Jalapeno', 'Hungarian Hot Wax'
Snow Peas - 'Carouby De Maussane', 'Green Beauty', 'Taichung 11'
Spinach - 'Acadia F1', 'Escalade F1', 'Regiment F1', 'Renegade F1', 'Shelby F1' - all are disease resistant
Spinach, 'Malabar' - comes in green and red stem varieties, large vine you can east all summer without bolting
Squash - 'Green Striped Cushaw', 'Tromba d'Albenga' (aka Tromboncino), 'Waltham Butternut'
Tomatillo - grows well and is productive; we only grow this in years when we run out of green sauce
Tomatoes, Cherry - 'Cherry Bomb F1', 'Rapunzel', 'Sakura F1', 'SuperSweet 100 VF', 'Sweetie'
Tomatoes, Plum - 'Plum Regal', 'Yaqui'
Tomatoes, Salad - 'Mountain Merit F1', 'Iron lady F1', 'Warrior', 'Longkeeper' (keeps into December)
Turnip - 'Gilfeather Turnip', plant July 4 and harvest Oct-Nov. This is actually a cross between a rutabaga (Brassica napus) and a true turnip (Brassica rapa)
These are the vegetables we no longer grow:
Broccoli - heads do not develop
Cabbage, Chinese - too buggy
Celery - shelf life is too short
Corn - too much labor and space used for the little we get
Eggplant, large - not enough time to grow to full size on our site
Kohlrabi - gets moldy in most years
Okra - grows well, but Judy does not like it.
Onions (full sized) - not enough sun in our garden area to get large onions
Parsnips - have not figure out how to grows these properly yet
Potatoes - too much labor for the little we get and seed potatoes are too expensive
Pumpkin - we prefer Cushaw squash for pumpkin pie
Radish - they grow well but have limited use
Sweet potatoes - too much labor for the little we get and the vines take up too much room
Seed sources we like are:
Burpee
Fedco
Grow Italian
High Mowing Seeds
Jung Seed
Kitazawa Seed
Prairy Moon (flowers for pollinators and beneficial insects)
Baker Seeds
Seed Savers
Seeds 'N Such
Pine Tree Garden Seeds
Territorial Seed
Tomato Growers
True Leaf Market
Victory Seeds
Burpee
Fedco
Grow Italian
High Mowing Seeds
Jung Seed
Kitazawa Seed
Prairy Moon (flowers for pollinators and beneficial insects)
Baker Seeds
Seed Savers
Seeds 'N Such
Pine Tree Garden Seeds
Territorial Seed
Tomato Growers
True Leaf Market
Victory Seeds
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