Training and Pruning Grape Vines
There are many methods of trellising grape vines, and I have tried most of them. You can find descriptions of all of them online and on YouTube.
With one person pruning and training over 130 vines, I found myself bogged down with too much work that I did not have the time to do. So, I had to find the training method that resulted in the least amount of work for me.
First Step
The first thing I do, to save time, is to not use grafted grapevines.
Some varieties do not do well on their own rootstock and they need to be grafted onto one that provides better yield, shorter ripening time, or protection against disease. Most vinifera, in particular, need to be grafted onto an American rootstock to protect against Phylloxera which can kill vinifera vines.
However, I understand, through my research, that half the labor in vineyards is covering up grafted vines in the Fall, to protect them from dying over the winter.
My solution is to avoid cultivars that need grafting. There are enough self-rooted vines available that do well for me, without resorting to grafted vines. This decision allows me to use my time in other areas of importance to me. For a commercial vineyard, however, grafting can be attractive and worthwhile for vines that do not do well on their own rootstock.
Second Step
The second time-saving discovery was to find a training system that made pruning and netting easier.
After trying many methods, I finally settled on one method -"Cane-Pruned Vertical Shoot Positioning (VSP) with side netting". This works well for all the American and hybrid grapes in this trial.
You can cane prune (skinny one-year-old arms on the grape trunk) or cordon prune (fat multi-year arms on the grape trunk). I found cane pruning best.
In areas like Connecticut, the wet weather results in high disease pressure. Cane pruning avoids disease that can fester in cordons. Also, vertical shoot positioning offers good air flow through the leaves, and VSP also easily allows the use of "side netting" to protect the ripening grapes from birds raiding your crop. Side netting is much easier to set up than overhead netting, unless you have a large commercial overhead system on runners. Also, with VSP, it is easy to prune away excessive growth mid-season. As the shoots grow, you position them between double wires - much easier than tying them in place. Then, when they get too long and high, you give them a haircut at the top, so they do not bend over and shade the growth below.
Construction
In commercial vineyards, heavy equipment is used to bore holes in the ground for large heavy timbers that anchor the trellis wires. That is a great system, but it is expensive. In our small backyard vineyard, to save money, I use 8' T-posts pounded 2' into the ground, and 14 ga galvanized electric fence wire. Since I use cane pruning, I do not need to support heavy cordons so this 14 ga wire works just fine.
Here is a diagram showing how I setup a VSP trellis.
With one person pruning and training over 130 vines, I found myself bogged down with too much work that I did not have the time to do. So, I had to find the training method that resulted in the least amount of work for me.
First Step
The first thing I do, to save time, is to not use grafted grapevines.
Some varieties do not do well on their own rootstock and they need to be grafted onto one that provides better yield, shorter ripening time, or protection against disease. Most vinifera, in particular, need to be grafted onto an American rootstock to protect against Phylloxera which can kill vinifera vines.
However, I understand, through my research, that half the labor in vineyards is covering up grafted vines in the Fall, to protect them from dying over the winter.
My solution is to avoid cultivars that need grafting. There are enough self-rooted vines available that do well for me, without resorting to grafted vines. This decision allows me to use my time in other areas of importance to me. For a commercial vineyard, however, grafting can be attractive and worthwhile for vines that do not do well on their own rootstock.
Second Step
The second time-saving discovery was to find a training system that made pruning and netting easier.
After trying many methods, I finally settled on one method -"Cane-Pruned Vertical Shoot Positioning (VSP) with side netting". This works well for all the American and hybrid grapes in this trial.
You can cane prune (skinny one-year-old arms on the grape trunk) or cordon prune (fat multi-year arms on the grape trunk). I found cane pruning best.
In areas like Connecticut, the wet weather results in high disease pressure. Cane pruning avoids disease that can fester in cordons. Also, vertical shoot positioning offers good air flow through the leaves, and VSP also easily allows the use of "side netting" to protect the ripening grapes from birds raiding your crop. Side netting is much easier to set up than overhead netting, unless you have a large commercial overhead system on runners. Also, with VSP, it is easy to prune away excessive growth mid-season. As the shoots grow, you position them between double wires - much easier than tying them in place. Then, when they get too long and high, you give them a haircut at the top, so they do not bend over and shade the growth below.
Construction
In commercial vineyards, heavy equipment is used to bore holes in the ground for large heavy timbers that anchor the trellis wires. That is a great system, but it is expensive. In our small backyard vineyard, to save money, I use 8' T-posts pounded 2' into the ground, and 14 ga galvanized electric fence wire. Since I use cane pruning, I do not need to support heavy cordons so this 14 ga wire works just fine.
Here is a diagram showing how I setup a VSP trellis.
Each new vertical fruiting shoot is positioned between the double catch wires and allowed to grow 12-18” above the top wires. Any more growth is pruned off, so these do not drape down and shade the leaves below.
Side Netting
“Side-netting” is used to protect the grapes from birds and deer. One net on each side of the trellis is permanently attached with clips, and bunched with elastic bands at the wires located 58" above the ground. When needed, these two nets are released then draped over the leaves and grapes, and temporarily joined below the wire located 23" above the ground. For winter storage, the netting is again bunched at the wires 58" above the ground. This netting lasts 10 years in the Sun.
Here is what side-netting looks like when it is draped and tied over the fruiting zone.
Side Netting
“Side-netting” is used to protect the grapes from birds and deer. One net on each side of the trellis is permanently attached with clips, and bunched with elastic bands at the wires located 58" above the ground. When needed, these two nets are released then draped over the leaves and grapes, and temporarily joined below the wire located 23" above the ground. For winter storage, the netting is again bunched at the wires 58" above the ground. This netting lasts 10 years in the Sun.
Here is what side-netting looks like when it is draped and tied over the fruiting zone.
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Side-Netting - Photo from Spectrellising catalog
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You can get the side netting and clips from Spectrellising. This is what I use:
- 40” wide “Tightloch” net
- Double Hooked Net Clips (to hold the netting in place)
- 14 ga Premium Catch-Wire “C” Clips (to hold the double catch wires together)
- G315 Black Rubber Bands (to tie up the net in place for the winter)
- Tagging Gun with plastic insert packs (to close the bottom of the net - alternatively, wire ties can be used)
Prunning
Winter pruning removes 90% of old and new growth. Correct pruning is critical for a good grape crop.
All old growth is removed except for the trunk(s) and this year’s new canes. For low vigor vines, I use multiple trunks. This year's new canes will be next year’s “one-year-old canes.” Keep more new canes than you need - some may die over winter. When Spring arrives, keep the best canes and remove the rest. Fruiting shoots grow best from one-year-old canes and generally bear grapes.
This photo shows the difference between 1-year-old canes (what you want) and older canes (what you do not want). However, the canes you want are the ones coming directly out of the trunk or out of a short spur, and not from older long canes located far from the trunk. Obtain your new canes as close to the trunk as possible, and remove canes that are located far from the trunk.
Winter pruning removes 90% of old and new growth. Correct pruning is critical for a good grape crop.
All old growth is removed except for the trunk(s) and this year’s new canes. For low vigor vines, I use multiple trunks. This year's new canes will be next year’s “one-year-old canes.” Keep more new canes than you need - some may die over winter. When Spring arrives, keep the best canes and remove the rest. Fruiting shoots grow best from one-year-old canes and generally bear grapes.
This photo shows the difference between 1-year-old canes (what you want) and older canes (what you do not want). However, the canes you want are the ones coming directly out of the trunk or out of a short spur, and not from older long canes located far from the trunk. Obtain your new canes as close to the trunk as possible, and remove canes that are located far from the trunk.
Video
Here is an excellent 2-minute video on YouTube showing how to cane prune grape vines for a VSP system,
"How to Prune Grapevines: Cane-VSP"
Here is an excellent 2-minute video on YouTube showing how to cane prune grape vines for a VSP system,
"How to Prune Grapevines: Cane-VSP"
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Rapid Growth of Grape Vines
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This photo shows what the pruned vine looks like in early Spring for a vine planted in 2010. Notice the black side-netting tucked away in its Winter and Spring position tied up with special G315 rubber bands. The net is not dropped until the grapes are beginning to veraison (turn color).
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This is what the same vine looks like mid-Summer. Notice all the growth that has come out of those little twigs in just a few months. The black side-netting is still tucked away and not dropped until the end of Summer.
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'Bluebell' vine - Here are five more photos of other vines that were pruned using the "Cane-pruned vertical shoot positioning (VSP) system". They do not always look picture perfect per the above diagram - it depends on where the canes decide to grow from the trunks. Canes are tied to Fruit Wires #1 and #2. Notice that I cut away all old canes and only leave the 24" trunks and new canes from this year's growth. Then I use all the new canes from this year's growth rather than just the theoretical four. If new canes are at awkward angles to the trunk, I remove them. Also, I use multiple trunks. Some canes or trunks may die over winter so it is better to have extra. I can always cut off excessive growth in the Spring.
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'Spartan Seedless' vine.
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'Mrs. Munson' vine.
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Another 'Spartan Seedless' vine.
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'Wine King' vine.
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Bags
I have been experimenting with paper bags, plastic bags, and plastic clamshells to protect grapes from disease, birds, pests, and the SWD (Spotted Wing Drosophila). This is discussed elsewhere on this website.
The raccoons have been experimenting as well - they have no problem ripping open paper bags. However, they cannot get into the plastic clamshells. Wasps don't have that problem - they can get into the vent holes in the clamshells. Birds do not get into either.
The side-netting discussed above also keeps birds out.
I have been experimenting with paper bags, plastic bags, and plastic clamshells to protect grapes from disease, birds, pests, and the SWD (Spotted Wing Drosophila). This is discussed elsewhere on this website.
The raccoons have been experimenting as well - they have no problem ripping open paper bags. However, they cannot get into the plastic clamshells. Wasps don't have that problem - they can get into the vent holes in the clamshells. Birds do not get into either.
The side-netting discussed above also keeps birds out.
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Fencing
For a while, I tried to avoid fencing and the critters rejoiced and feasted. Necessity, the mother of invention, made me reconsider.
For a small area, I found PermaNet Plus 12/48/3 Electric Netting works well. It is inexpensive and very easy to put up. It comes fully assembled - just roll it open and step on the bottom of the rods to drive them 6" into the ground. Lengths available: 25', 50', and 100'. It keeps out deer, raccoons, rabbits and woodchucks. Supplier: Premier1Supplies
Also, here is a link to PermaNet Installation Instructions Video
For larger areas, I put up a 7' high electric fence. This is also inexpensive, but requires quite a bit of labor.
To hold the wires, I put in 4" x 4" x 10' pressure-treated wooden posts spaced every 40', with 10' long 5/8" (#5) rebar spaced every 10 feet. There are 7 strands of 14 ga galvanized electric wire, and 3 runners of 1" wide electric poly tape.
This keeps out deer, but in order to keep out smaller critters, like woodchuck and raccoons, I needed to put a second fence. I chose to use a 3' high, 1/2" galvanized hardware cloth barrier, inside the outer fence, using 5' long 1/2" (#4) rebar as posts. This defense barrier was spaced as close to the electric fence as possible, without shorting out the wires. Now in order to climb in, a critter would need to negotiate the space between the hardware cloth, and the charged wires, while getting shocked with electric voltage. This has been 100% effective in keeping critters out.
With only shoddy insulators being offered for sale locally, the rod post insulators that hold the electric wire and poly tape took a bit of research in order to find a better product.
When dealing with an inferior insulator product on rebar, and the bottom insulator breaks from sun and wind, you have 10 insulators and wires above it that must be removed, to replace the broken insulator. This is ridiculous.
Fortunately, I found a product that is available through the manufacturer Parmakusa, who have a superior design. Each insulator can be changed independently, without removing any other insulators or wires. It can do this because the screw thread has an open back. For more information, see the insert below.
For a while, I tried to avoid fencing and the critters rejoiced and feasted. Necessity, the mother of invention, made me reconsider.
For a small area, I found PermaNet Plus 12/48/3 Electric Netting works well. It is inexpensive and very easy to put up. It comes fully assembled - just roll it open and step on the bottom of the rods to drive them 6" into the ground. Lengths available: 25', 50', and 100'. It keeps out deer, raccoons, rabbits and woodchucks. Supplier: Premier1Supplies
Also, here is a link to PermaNet Installation Instructions Video
For larger areas, I put up a 7' high electric fence. This is also inexpensive, but requires quite a bit of labor.
To hold the wires, I put in 4" x 4" x 10' pressure-treated wooden posts spaced every 40', with 10' long 5/8" (#5) rebar spaced every 10 feet. There are 7 strands of 14 ga galvanized electric wire, and 3 runners of 1" wide electric poly tape.
This keeps out deer, but in order to keep out smaller critters, like woodchuck and raccoons, I needed to put a second fence. I chose to use a 3' high, 1/2" galvanized hardware cloth barrier, inside the outer fence, using 5' long 1/2" (#4) rebar as posts. This defense barrier was spaced as close to the electric fence as possible, without shorting out the wires. Now in order to climb in, a critter would need to negotiate the space between the hardware cloth, and the charged wires, while getting shocked with electric voltage. This has been 100% effective in keeping critters out.
With only shoddy insulators being offered for sale locally, the rod post insulators that hold the electric wire and poly tape took a bit of research in order to find a better product.
When dealing with an inferior insulator product on rebar, and the bottom insulator breaks from sun and wind, you have 10 insulators and wires above it that must be removed, to replace the broken insulator. This is ridiculous.
Fortunately, I found a product that is available through the manufacturer Parmakusa, who have a superior design. Each insulator can be changed independently, without removing any other insulators or wires. It can do this because the screw thread has an open back. For more information, see the insert below.
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